Guscade

Namco / Midway's - Ms. Pac-Man - 1981

2011-12-24T14:45:00.000-08:00

Ms. Pac-Man another unmistakable recognizable gaming character at over 30 years old still continues to become staples in peoples video game collections. Although Similar to Pac-Man; In Ms. Pac-Man you have the fruit that jumps around, in addition to 4 ways to pass through and escape the maze as opposed to Pac-man's 2 ways. Ms. Pac-Man In my opinion is also better because you get different mazes after every few screens. I also tracked down this game locally on craigslist. Being that the game is so popular and common most likely on any craigslist you will find some form of a Ms. Pac-Man cabinet. Sometimes you might see multicades, or conversions, cocktails, cabarets (mini), and of course the traditional upright. I was able to track down an original cabinet in fair cosmetic condition but it was in non-working condition. I was happy because I knew that would keep the cost down and I would be able to fix it eventually.The first thing I did was tested the Ms. Pac-Man PCB inside my Pac-Man cabinet since it shares the same pinout. I had the RSOD, also known as the Red Screen Of Death. So the guy I bought my original Pac-Man PCB i had sent this one out to be repaired for a very fair price. Although Typically working replacement boards go for around 50-90 shipped. I wanted to keep my original board inside the cabinet since all of my numbers matched.

While the board was being sent out although the cabinet was in fair condition, I wanted to sand it down / fix any wood issues / repaint.

The coin door had the typical lock bars installed at some point it was obviously a game that was "on location" earning money. So I used bondo to fill the holes and smooth / sand it down.

Once the cabinet was sanded down I applied primer, and painted the cabinet using the above color code from home depot. Other pictures below showing the painting progress.

Inside the cabinet typically the power supplies go bad after 30 years, or need to be rebuilt. I decided to order a switching power supply conversion kit through arcadeshop.com. Below you can see photo's of the kit installed:

It had an original G-07 monitor inside the cabinet, I noticed a blown fuse, I wasn't sure what the condition was with the monitor so I decided to clean / wash it to get rid of 30 year old crud that had built up around sensitive parts. Temporarily I replaced the monitor with a virtually new burn in free Wells Gardner. Below you can see the before and after pictures of the original G07, down the road I will replace / fix the chasi and possibly re-cap, new flyback fix the original monitor. down the road I'm sure I'll utilize it as the CRT monitors are getting harder to find.

Before and After cleaning the g07 monitor:

So not much was left to do other than slap on some artwork for cosmetics, Also I had replaced the marquee because the original one was majorly faded due to the fact that the marquee sits so close to the bulbs / florescent. Many times the marquee loses the "Pink" and almost turns white. Also I had added Pink T-Molding from T-Molding.com. I kept the original Control Panel Overlay because I couldn't really justify replacing it the condition was good enough.My cabinet has alot of "number matching" parts, my cabinet, pcb, and throughout other various locations on the cabinet has number 51987. Below are some pictures showing the serial number throughout my Ms. Pac-Man cabinet In addition to the Dip Switch Settings:

I found a great deal on a burn in free CRT Wells Gardner which when I installed noticed an error with scrambled lines saying "Over Range". I Googled and came up with a .pdf fix from Wells Gardner claiming to hit the OSD button on the remote board and lower the contrast / brightness which should fix the issue. The only major problem I noticed was that my remote board didn't seem to function with the "Over Range" error on the monitor. So I asked the seller what the cause was. He said to cut the middle wire on the three prong sync molex. I felt like Macgyver and wanted to make sure I wasn't going to cause any further damage. Reluctantly I ended up saying oh well and just cut it, sure enough that fixed the "Over Range" Issue and the Wells Gardner Monitor looked fantastic ! Finally the game wasn't playing blind and looked great.

Above you can see that Pac-Man and Ms. Pac-Man were meant to be together! Below is a video of the game running. While recording I got a blue maze to start level one which doesn't happen that often. After the death of Ms. Pac-Man towards the very end of the video you can see the maze change back to it's more common / traditional color for level one.

However according to Don Hodges:

"The origin of this bug is in the original Pac-Man code. There is a subroutine which controls the flashing energizers in the attract mode of Pac-Man. Normally, this subroutine is only supposed to run during the introduction screen where the ghosts are introduced by name. On some occasions, when the player dies, this subroutine gets called, which flashes the 2 screen location where these energizers are located. When it is called in Pac-Man, it causes the disappearance of the dot that is 2 to the left of the starting point of Pac-Man in the maze. The other screen location that is affected is already blank, so the changed color has no visible effect there. In Ms. Pac-Man, it causes 2 screen locations to change color, which affects the different mazes in slightly different ways. For the first maze, this same dot to the left of where Ms. Pac-Man begins changes color to pink. Like in Pac-Man, the other screen location that is affected is already blank, so the changed color has no visible effect there. For the second maze, two locations are affected. For the third maze, only one location is visibly affected. For the fourth maze, two locations are affected. In any case, this bug is very difficult to spot because usually the anomalies are covered up by a screen refresh almost immediately after they are created. The exception to this rule is during the demo mode of Ms. Pac-Man. If you watch the demo long enough, eventually you will notice that the dot in question is colored pink on rare occasions after Ms. Pac-Man has died during the demo, and it stays pink on screen long enough to be easily observed."

Capcom / Taito's Ghosts 'N Goblins- 1985

2011-10-24T11:50:00.000-07:00

Just in time for fall 2011 with Halloween right around the bend, comes another ghoulishly great platformer from Capcom - Ghosts 'N Goblins. The game was distributed by Taito America, as well as Romstar. The game was distributed in two ways; sold as a kit with a generic romstar overlay, button stickers, pcb, marquee... However some did come in dedicated purple Taito cabinets. The one I was able to track down was in the original dedicated purple cabinet which was in great shape. It's one of the heaviest cabinets in my entire collection. The game is pretty simple you play as "Sir Michael" according to my bezel, I always thought it was "Sir Arthur" trying to rescue the princess from the devil. Throughout the game you battle ghosts, goblins, birds, zombies, plants, just to name a few. You have a spear to start out with and are allowed to get hit once while you have your armor on, if you get struck you are reduced to running around in your underwear. Throughout the game you can pick up other weapons; a knife, shield, fire, axe etc.. Although only 6 stages exist in the game it's HELLishly difficult.

This particular cabinet eluded me for a long time. Despite the fact that I think the game is extremely difficult something about it keeps pulling me in. Maybe the catchy music, possibly the cool art or perhaps the fact that it's so impossible leaves me reaching for more quarters in my pocket. I saw an ad posted on craigslist for one out of state in CT, I drove with another local collector friend from NY to see it. When we got to the guys house he said he made a mistake and didn't have the game ?! Another one I saw was posted for sale in Florida but the shipping killed the deal, and I once again couldn't justify paying for the high shipping costs. Finally the same local collector who I went to CT with had one in his collection that he was willing to part with. I had helped him move his 32 games into storage locally and he said I can have it whenever I wanted to pick it up, so I couldn't pass up the opportunity.

The game was also ported onto many other home consoles that you might remember playing those versions. It made it's way to the following systems ; Sinclair ZX Spectrum, Amstrad CPC 464/6128, Atari ST, IBM PC, Commodore 16, Sharp X68000, Nintendo Game Boy Color, Game Boy Advance and the NES, PSP, as well as the Apple Iphone. The game 3 years later had what some to consider a sequel that rivals the original and that's called "Ghouls N Ghosts". The sequel Ghouls n Ghosts had majorly improved graphics, you could fire up and down with your weapons and had a golden armor suit that had a special weapon to name a few. I might down the road purchase a JAMMA switcher and have both PCB's inside the cabinet. But one things for sure I'm happy that I finally found and added Ghosts 'n Goblins into my collection. The game is in great original condition. Bezel looks near perfect, marquee looks great, control panel looks great with the exception of the joystick needs to go into the chuck of my drill for cleaning. I'm not sure if they originally planned this but I like how the instructions on the bezel are just illuminated enough from the light from the marquee coming through the speaker grill for you to read when the lights are all off.

Konami / Stern's Pooyan - 1982

2011-08-15T13:01:00.000-07:00

"One day... In the forest..." Konami made Pooyan and distributed the game to Stern in 1982. In the game your object is to pop wolves balloons with arrows or meat. The game play is for the most part simplistic but as you advance through more levels you begin to realize just how insanely difficult this game gets. When you first start on level one the wolves begin to fall down, and if you miss any of them they will begin to climb a ladder trying to grab you. Every once in a while you will notice other items being tossed down such as strawberries, apples, etc. Hitting the various items that come down will yield you points but could potentially get in the way of you popping a wolfs balloon. The wolves also block some of your arrows, but they can't block the meat you toss at them which randomly appears at the top for you to grab. Also some of the wolves will toss items at you which you can either dodge out of the way, or hit it for points.

I was looking for a Pooyan cabinet for a long time. Throughout the years I gathered up various parts for the cabinet knowing possibly someday I might track one down. The cabinet also is shared by Stern's Bagman, as well as Minefield. While browsing craigslist one day I saw a "commando" inside what would I knew was put into a Stern cabinet. I immediately called to see if the cabinet was still available, to my surprise it was. The cabinet was listed as working, with no photo's of the side of the cabinet I asked what the colors of the side were which would likely tell me if it was a Pooyan (Blue) , Bagman (Yellow) or Minefield (Red). He had said the cabinet was "yellow" which to me indicated 99% it was a "Bagman" cabinet. I still insisted on checking it out. This is the image from the ad on craigslist, showing commando inside the Stern cabinet :As I was inspecting the cabinet I asked to see the inside, to my delight the inside had blue over spray from the Stern factory, indicating to me that this was originally a Pooyan! The seller said ; "you know what I think I see blue underneath the yellow laminate?!" Sure enough someone at some point around 1984-1985 when commando came out put the yellow laminate over the original blue Pooyan paint! I was happy that I finally found my Pooyan after several years of searching, it's a rather difficult original cabinet to find. All this time it was only about 10miles from my house!

I was excited to dive right into this restoration because I wanted the game for so long, in addition to the fact that I was sitting on parts for it for literally years. The first thing I did was to remove the yellow laminate as shown in this picture:Unfortunately while removing the yellow laminate it ripped small pieces of the plywood right away from the cabinet. The other terrible thing it left behind was a massive amount of adhesive glue type substance from the laminate. To remove the glue / adhesive I used a product called "Goof-Off" which worked rather well. It required a ton of elbow grease and patients to get all of that gunk off. Once all of the gunk was finally removed I used "3M's Bondo Body Filler" to fix the plywood. Once the bondo was applied, I than sanded, prepped the surface for priming and painting. Here you can see the various stages of the restoration:
I decided to repaint the over/ under coin door using "Textured Plastic". It was time to work on the control panel. Buried in my closet was a NOS (New Old Stock) Control Panel Overlay. This particular overlay that Stern used for this cabinet is actually printed directly onto the plexi itself as opposed to an adhesive sticker. I removed the used joystick, buttons, old plexi that the commando used with various typical cigarette burns. After removing the protective layer on the original pooyan control panel overlay beneath were vibrant colors that really popped. I decided to sand the existing carriage bolts on the control panel to get them all shinny again. I replaced the buttons with the correct color scheme, along with an original Wico joystick that the game used. Below you can see pictures of the control panel being restored:
Again time to dig out some parts that have been sitting for a few years. Next up was to flatten the side art that was sitting in a tube rolled for a few years. You should flatten out the side art for any arcade machine that's been sitting in a tube for a while, this will help when applying to the cabinet. Another unique feature that this particular cabinet has is a slide out draw on the bottom which holds the PCB, Power Supply, Wiring etc. Also this game along with other Stern games features a "Bent Marquee" design. This allows you to place screws directly into the marquee itself without using a metal bracket which majority of marquees used. It gives it a floating design, and looks neat without having to use the upper bracket to hold it in place.

After the dedicated bent marquee was installed, the control panel, along with the side art the cabinet looks just about back to it's original 1982 glory. As a side note If you didn't know "Pooyan" in Japanese literally means little pigs. Also supposedly this game was according to some made specifically for Chuck E Cheese's back in the early 80's. Clearly this game is some what based off of the "Three Little Pigs". If you are lucky enough to find this cabinet, my hats off to you this one took a long time to track down and add to my collection. I would consider it pretty rare to come by, so If you see one for sale grab it! Below is a picture of the nearly completed restored Pooyan:

Namco / Atari's Galaga '88 - 1987

2009-11-23T17:49:00.000-08:00

The legacy of Galaga '88 first started with Namco's Galaxian 1979. Later the series included Galaga 1981, then followed with Gaplus in 1984. Galaga '88 shared the same cabinet as Pacmania, as well as Dragon Spirit, all produced by Namco with licensing given to Atari. I picked up this cabinet at an auction and got a great deal on it, but the cabinet needed new parts which are hard to find. I was able to slowly track down the NOS side art set 1 piece I found on ebay, another from a KLOV member. The control panel overlay was missing a large chunk, so it needed to be replaced.

Here is what the cabinet looked like when I purchased it at the auction:

NOS Galaga 88' side art:

Control panel before:

During the control panel restoration, I simply used paint stripper which helped peel off the old adhesive. I then sanded the control panel down, and painted it. Once the control panel overlay was painted I then applied the NOS control panel overlay. I replaced the micro-switch buttons with yellow leaf buttons. The last step was to redrill a fresh sheet of plexi to help protect the art.

Control panel after:

This game unlike others in the series does have an ending. It also let's you take on different levels depending on being able to obtain the items, which trigger the dimension warps. Also during the bonus rounds if you don't touch any thing it will give you a secret bonus of 10,000 pts. The game play is almost identical to Galaga, except in Galaga '88 you can obtain a triple ship! Most of my Galaga '88 restoration is complete, except for the black generic atari card board needs replacement, along with the atari cone buttons, as well as the original atari logo stick needs to be rebuilt.

Namco's Pac-Man - 1980

2009-09-22T22:10:00.000-07:00

When you think of lassic video game titles, it's hard not to think of Namco / Midway's Pac-Man from 1980. The game is simple, yet very addictive and of course one of the most popular arcade titles of all time. I knew that I wanted to add a Pac-Man machine into the "Guscade", but I had no intention on obtaining my Pac project so soon. It all started about two weekends ago when a Craigs list ad posted another title in Connecticut. I went to CT with two other members from KLOV, only to find out that the machines which were advertised were not even available for purchase. In frustration we headed back to NY with an empty trailer and decided to call local Craigs list ads while on the road. Initially people did not seem to be budging on their advertised prices; however we were determined to get a good deal after what seemed to be a pointless lengthy road trip. We came up with a game called "Let's play one hundred dollar cab". Some guy listed a dead Williams Defender, and a Galaxian for $600.00, we offered him $200.00 for the pair and told him we had a trailer and were ready to pick them up immediately. The guy said OK, we were all pretty shocked so we figured at this point we might as well at least check them out. We were able to work out a deal and score both cabinets for $150.00 ! The Defender ended up going to one of the other KLOVers and I got the Galaxian, soon to be my Pac-Man cabinet.

First a little background on Midway cabinets. After doing some quick research I found out that Galaxian, and Pac-Man cabinets are both exactly identical. However although similar looking, Ms. Pac-Man, Galaga, & Bosconian are all of the same Midway style cabinets, but are slightly different than Pac-Man and Galaxian. Also Rally-X is very similar except it's a little less deep. When I first picked up the Galaxian cabinet it was more of a hybrid. The machine had Galaga '88 side art, a Galaga glass bezel, with the rest of the parts being Glaxian. The machine was already painted black and the Galaxian art work underneath was too far gone to recover. I decided that I've always wanted a Pac-Man, and since it shares the same cabinet style I might as well convert the Galaxian to Pac-Man.

When I first picked up the cabinet this is what it looked like:

To start with the restoration I first removed the "Galaga '88" side art with a scrapper. Next I applied some paint stripper and removed all of the black paint along with the remaining "Galaxian" original sideart underneath. Began to sand the cabinet down once it was clean enough I was able to prime. In between the coats of primer I used 320 grit sandpaper.

A while ago I was able to obtain a N.O.S. (New Old Stock) original Pac-Man marquee from a KLOV member. I knew that I would eventually use the marquee for my future Pac project. Being that it was just about 30 years old the paper backing was stubborn to get off so I needed to use water, and goo-gone.

I noticed that after removing the Galaxian marquee, I was going to need to add a light source. Usually Pac-Man and other Midway games during the early 80's had incandescent bulbs. I was told from a member on BYOAC to just add a flourescent under counter light from walmart which was only about $7.00. Since the existing wiring was still intact, I was able to use that and add the fluorescent. This was a cheaper alternative, and saves more energy than traditional incandescents. Also the fluorescent evenly distributes the light behind the marquee.

Next I started to work on the Midway coin door. The coin slots were painted over black and shouldn't of been, so I removed them and cleaned them up. Also the coin mechs, the reject buttons were also painted black, so I cleaned those up also using paint stripper.

After removing majority of the parts on the coin door; I used more paint stripper, and then revealed the bare metal, sanded, primed and then used "textured black" paint.

I bought the control panel fully populated from a KLOV member. When I got the control panel it had the usual paint wear, and needed a new control panel overlay. Again the same process was used with the paint stripper / primer / paint.

Finished control Panel:
After rolling the yellow paint it's starting to look alot more like a Pac-Man and alot less like a Galaxian:

Adding the Stencils took a long time, a total of 9 sheets 3 for the front, left, and right sides (Red,Blue & Black Paint):

Added the glass bezel, the PCB of course,completed control panel, NOS marquee, new orange T-molding and after the stencils have been completed my Pac-Man is just about finished!

Review Barcade Brooklyn, NY

2009-05-19T13:52:00.000-07:00

My review of " Barcade " in Brooklyn NY.

I went a few months ago, and wanted to share what games they had and what I thought about the atmosphere. Got to Barcade around 11:30pm and it was pretty packed.. It was soo packed that you needed to push people outta the way to walk to a different area. Once around 1am rolled through things began to thin out and the games were alot more accessible. Alot of people were just leaning on some of the games, with girls who had their pocket books and coats on them using them as coat racks..But would be curtius to move their junk if you wanted to play.
Here is a list of the roughly 25! classic games that were availble / working :

When you first walk in to the right you will see:

1943 *horrible screen burn in
Zaxxon

Then the first big row of games are on the left :

Tapper
Dig Dug
Frogger
Marble Madness
Punch Out!
Moon Patrol
Donkey Kong
Asteroids
Rampage
Ghost N' Goblins
Bezerk
Lady Bug

Then a smaller row of games by the 2 tables / bench area:

Centipede
Arkanoid *spinner felt wobbly ; or broken
Q*Bert

keep going around or if your walking in from the front door on the right you will see this row of games:

Sinistar
Tetris
Galaga *Icade PCB installed? :-(
Ms. Pac-Man *bad condition metal control panel was cracking / had a hole in it
Pengo
Outrun
Rolling Thunder
Crystal Castles
**Robotron 2084 not working unplugged near the bathroom

Also they had the highscore chalk board floating above a row of games lit up which I thought was cool. I wanted to know what other people thought of this place. Personally I felt they had the most classics in one public location closest to my house (NY), but they just need to better maintain them. I understand that it's a Bar and not a private collection. All and all I would say go and check it out, it's worth poppin' by, unless your own private collection trumps it. Most of what's available is pretty much common classics, which appeals to the masses, Some of which are also already available in "Guscade" or might be in the near future.

Taito's Bubble Bobble - 1986

2009-05-12T15:10:00.000-07:00

"Now it is the beginning of a fantastic story! Let's make a journey to the cave of monsters! Good Luck!"

Most people remember the game Bubble Bobble from the port on the Nintendo console, however the arcade version of this classic game has improved graphics and that same annoying theme music that you can't get out of your head. I bought this cabinet off craigslist in MA, long road trip, but well worth it for this gem in my collection. The cabinet was originally a Williams Robotron 2084, and then was at some point converted into a Bubble Bobble. The cabinet was in very rough shape when I snatched it, the wood on the bottom was splintering, and amoung other things was in dire need of a paint job.

Pictures of the cabinet when I picked it up:

The wooden control panel was cracked, and also had microswitches installed instead of leafs. I first took the control panel off, and disconnected all of the wiring. The original 2-way restricted wico leaf joysticks were still intact, but I ended up replacing the shafts.

Top View of the damaged control panel:

The marquee for this game has two different variations, This is the marquee that was distributed in the US by Romstar. This game just like Gun.Smoke, was also a kit-only game and never existed as a dedicated cabinet in the US. The marquee was in nice shape, and only needed to be cleaned.

I used a scrapper to peel off the old Romstar generic art, which revealed more of the Robotron 2084 artwork underneath. I then used paint thinner to melt away the old black paint, and then a Dewalt palm sander to smooth out the surface of the bare wood.

I added wood filler to the bottom of the cabinet. Also to help protect it from any furthur damage I attached 2 1/2'' casters. I did not want to add any unnecessary height to the cabinet, so I made sure that the casters were short.

The majority of the Williams control panels are wood, and alot thicker then metal control panels. At first I cleaned the original Wico shafts tossing them into my chuck of my drill. Although I brought back the shine to the used shafts, they were too short on the wood panel. I ordered brand new baby blue shafts from Bob Roberts which were 4'' in height and matched the marquee rather well. (Below is before and after cleaning shafts)

During the painting process I applied several coats. I needed to also order new T-Molding which was then later applied.

I ended up ordering a used williams control panel from a KLOV member but it was in very rough shape, at least it wasn't cracked. The control panel was a combination of both wood and metal, however the metal sheet was recut locally because it was too hacked. Below you can see the generic overlay being peeled off and revealing the original williams art, and the paint thinner hard at work.

Finally the new T-Molding, and control panel overlay, and this restoration is just about finished. The only thing currently missing from this project is the button stickers. The button stickers are supposidly going to be reproduced by Rich @ This_Old_Game . Bubble Bobble is certainly a favorite in "Guscade" and is a blast to play and of course extremely addicting.

Capcom's Gun Smoke - 1985

2009-05-11T19:53:00.000-07:00

The first game that I'm going to talk about restoring / building is Capcom's Gun Smoke. Originally this machine started it's life as a Taito Alpine Ski, which was then at some point later converted to a Mr. Do. My intentions were to create a Gun.Smoke conversion, since capcom never officially released this video game as a dedicated cabinet in the US, rather a "conversion kit".

To me this game is significant because I'm currently the world record holder in MAME for Gun.Smoke, you can find out all video game records which are held by http://www.twingalaxies.com/ .

When I first got the machine it needed alot of work! For starters the control panel had an unnecessary hole in the metal, along with a bad monitor, and a rough paint job. This was my first Non-MAME video game machine so I found out alot along the way during my restoration.

Here is the initial picture before my restoration really got underway:

First I removed the bad monitor, which was not secure (maybe during transporting), but it literally fell down half way, luckily the rail was able to support it just enough before plummiting to it's doom.

I ended up ordering a brand new CRT Provision monitor from http://www.happ.com/ just in the nick of time! This is because unfortunately they are no longer selling them! Only LCD's in the 19'' size. Many companies have stopped the production of CRT's due to the popularity of LCD's. Not only Happ, but many other arcade part companies have stopped production of CRT's.

Moving along with the restoration I took the control panel off & thought about where I wanted to drill the 3 buttons on each side since it's an ambidextrous set up. :

I was thinking about making an arc for the buttons, or perhaps just a straight line, in the end I decided to stay with an arc, because naturally that's how your fingers are. I started to drill using a 1 3/8'' hole saw attached to my drill.
Once the buttons were fully drilled through the control panel, I then started to procede to take off the old and very stubborn control panel overlay. For future tips to anyone removing an old CPO *Control Panel Overlay, I would recommend using a heat gun, or hair dryer & especially paint stripper.

I wanted to get the control panel down to the bare metal, so I then bought a drill attachment to help with the process (again, if you wanted to use paint thinner you could avoid this step, this is very time consuming but no chemicals are used).

I was able to score a nice deal on the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) from a KLOV (Killer List of video games) member. This game actually has a few variations of the board set, mainly 2 in the US. You have US Rom Set 1 (Which is the board I own) in this version on the bottom of the title screen it shows Romstar 1985 along with Capcom 1985, high score is set at 100,000. The US Set 2 is slightly different with the High Score set to 110,000 instead of 100,000 and on the bottom of the title screen it displays Romstar 1986 Capcom 1985. The main difference during game play is that levels 3, & 6 are swapped on the US Set 2. The reason why they did this was due to people complained it was too difficult. The Japanese board set for this game allows the user to enter up to 8 character letters after a highscore is achieved instead of the traditional 3 initials on the US boards.

This particular game is considered to be a "Capcom Classic". I wanted to wire the cabinet using a capcom classic adaptor which I purchased from http://www.jammaboards.com/ . This adaptor allows you to use the correct pinout with a JAMMA (Japan Amusement Machinery Manufacturers Association) harness. This adaptor also works with the following other games:

The Legendary Soldiers
Commando
Exed Eyes
Ghost n' Goblins
Legendary Wings
Section Z
Space Invasion
Trojan

I got the JAMMA wire loom from an ebay member which had .187 female quick disconnects. This was all color coded, and a chart was provided to show the correct output.

The power Supply

These are the video cables from the JAMMA Loom(Red,Green,Blue,White sync,Yellow sync,Black/ground)

I finally fired up the monitor for the first time, and sadly saw mainly red wavy lines. I then twisted both the yellow, and the white sync wires together and sure enough the picture came on, and was extremely crisp.

I wanted the game (and all of my games) to accept quarters so it would give the player a more acurate feel of an arcade. Hooking up the coin mech's were pretty easy, but the game was missing one so I needed to order a new one.

The original game kit contained a piece of plexi overlay for the control panel to help protect the artwork underneath, so I got a piece of plexi and drilled it accordingly. I also filled in the bad hole on the left side with bondo.

Overall the cabinet was in solid condition with no water damage, but was in need of a paint job. I took the cabinet apart and first started on the front door area where the coin door is.

The wood from the front door was nicked and scratched pretty bad before sanding. During sanding it revealed the original cabinets artwork underneath (Alpine Ski). After the surface was smooth enough I added spray primer. Once the spray primer was dryed I added the black paint. The end result on the front coin door came out pretty solid.

I was lucky enough to track down the original control panel sticker sheet for the game from an ebay user. They were however reproduced recently by Jeff at Rotheblog. The control panel overlay I ordered from Scott at Mame_Marquees . I have NOS (New Old Stock) Generic Romstar overlays, but I did not have one in brown, and that was the color I wanted to go with. I was sent the leaf buttons, and an original 8-way Wico joystick from a member on BYOAC . The member on BYOAC was kind enough to send me those parts for FREE! I have since upgraded them using a new Wico shaft, and new leaf buttons which was ordered from Bob Roberts .

With everything in place it was time to test the game out! Oh no my "fire left" was not working. As it turns out the "capcom classic" adaptor needed to be moddified to suit Gun.Smoke's 3 button configuration. All of the other capcom classic games have 2-button set up. So the adaptor needed to have a little bit of soddering done (black wires).

The cabinet was finished off with the NOS Sideart set one piece I luckily found on ebay, and the other I purchased from Anthony at Quarter Arcade. I'm very happy with the end result.

Welcome to "Guscade" !

2009-05-11T19:39:00.000-07:00

Welcome to "Guscade" the future blog about arcade projects in my basement, along with other video game related jargon.