Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Data East / Bally Midway - BurgerTime - 1982

Burger Time was made by Data East which was distributed by Bally / Midway in the US in 1982. The game is another maze type game while avoiding enemies and forming burgers as you walk across the buns, meat, tomatoes, lettuce etc. Throughout the game your character "Peter Pepper" is being chased by hot dogs, eggs, & pickle character enemies. You have various point potential opportunities by trying to group the enemies together and having a piece of the hamburger either crush them or have them walk across the hamburger pieces as you are dropping them. Peter Pepper you might notice walks around with an "H" on his chefs hat because the games original title was supposed to be "Hamburger". Peter Pepper does have the ability to mobilize the enemies brifely by using his pepper spray, but use them wisely as you are only allocated a certain amount. You will be able to get replenishment peppers as you play various levels. To advance to the next screen simply complete forming all of the burgers on the screen.


When I first picked up my cabinet it was in mediocre condition at best. While It's tough to tell from the above photos, the BurgerTime cabinet had various scratches, faded artwork, some minor planking, as well as the game was completely dead when I picked it up. Oh yeah the cabinet also had no CRT monitor, a bad control panel overlay, a bad power supply, faded t-molding, no locks, drilled lock bar holes to mention a few. The good news was that overall the cabinet was structurally pretty solid without any water damage. Also the cabinet had all of the original wiring for the most part intact, this cabinet was always a BurgerTime and never was converted. Probably one of the most unique features of the BurgerTime cabinet is the wood on top forms the chefs (Peter Pepper's) hat. I think cosmetically it's one of the more iconic, and eye catching cabinets that is cleverly done just right.

First I started with the coin door which was rusty, scratched, and very dirty as most midway coin doors are before a restoration. Especially being that this game sat on location for years. I disassembled cleaned, sanded, primed and painted the coin door as well as added new cabinet locks. Above you can see the various stages of the coin door restoration taking place. I might even redo the coin door again in "textured plastic" this one I just used a flat black, while it looks fine it can be improved. Below is a picture of the completed coin door with the flat black paint, and before I replaced the barrel lock:

The next  challenge was to tackle the cabinet. First I started to sand away the old existing artwork. I used my Dewalt 2 1/4'' palm sander, which works great but it's just a tedious process. I would recommend probably using either an 80 grit or even possibly go as low as a 60 grit. Or just use what ever method works best for you. Once you get it down to the bare wood, your going to want to fill in any holes, cracks or wood issues with Bondo. You really want to stay away from wood filler as it sometimes does shrink over time.


Once I filled in all of the nicks, dents, and lock bar holes from when the game sat on location I was ready to paint. I used the main mustard color with a Home Depot color called "Yam" in case anyone needed the paint code. This was a very almost Identical match to the original. I needed to wait for the stencils to come because they had a long delay due to the fact that Rich at Thisoldgame.com was busy with other projects. The delay gave me some time to work on other cosmetic / and mechanical issues on the cabinet.
The first thing I decided to work on while waiting on the stencils to come in was the control panel. The original control panel overlay was peeling, dirty, along with the control panel had rust etc. Below you can see pictures of the CPO (Control Panel Overlay) before:


I ended up using a wall paper steamer for the first time to remove the older control panel overlay. This is actually great because you don't need to use harmful chemicals, sure it's not as fast but you can certainly even do it inside without worrying about toxic flesh melting paint stripper. Once the control panel was stripped of all parts including the CPO, I sanded, and used bondo, as well as painted the panel to prevent future rust from forming. I bought the New Silk Screened CPO from "Backtothearcade.com" which was actually made by Rich at Thisoldgame.com.

New Silk Screened Control Panel Overlay
During Installation
Control Panel Reassembled 













The control panel was just about finished with one detail missing the "Pepper Buttons". I ordered my button stencils from gamestencils.com. Brian who runs the website gamestencils.com sometimes offers the buttons already completed but I figured I would try them on my own. I ordered several sets of them as back-ups, and of course in case I made a mistake. I found the best method to applying the stencil to the button was flip the button upside down, and than simply use your fingers to smooth out the stencil. Once the stencil is applied I used painters tape around the button to prevent any paint from going where I didn't want it to go. I used a piece of Styrofoam to help keep the buttons in place while spraying. Once you take the stencil off you will have a nice pepper button. After the stencil fully dries probably best to wait several hours if not the next day a good Idea would be to clear coat them to prevent button wear in the future . 




Completed button
The next thing I got in the mail from Arcadeshop.com was the switching power supply kit. The original power supply is over 30 years, thus a new switching supply kit is easier to just drop into the game and likely more reliable than an older linear power supply. The only major complaint I have about Arcade Shops kit is that the adapter is not secure on the power supply, they should of had the adapter completely slide through the terminal screws rather than having it sit on the very edge of the adapter. I think this power supply kit also works with the following games: Mappy, Super Pac-Man, Jr. Pac-Man, Gorf, Wizard Of Wor, & Bump N' Jump.

Arcade Shop BurgerTime Power Supply Kit
 The next thing I did was I cleaned the inside of the cabinet, in addition to sanding down both the inside of the cabinet as well as the "brief case" style original transformer / power brick. Also my interlock switch was completely not connected, this could be dangerous if your working on a game and forget to shut it off, so I reconnected the wires accordingly.

Inside of cabinet
Interlock Switch
At this point in time I was still without a CRT Monitor to test the game, but I wanted to see if my PCB (Printed Circuit Board) was working. The game was now essentially wired up correctly after testing voltages with a multimeter I decided to turn the game on with the PCB connected. The game was now playing blind I was able to coin up / add credits to the game and I was able to hear the game sounds but unable to see anything because obviously no monitor was in place. So rather than remove another monitor from one of my other games I decided to build a test rig / portable LCD. Sitting in my closet for years was a PSone LCD screen which is able to run CGA resolution if modified. I decided since I wasn't using the PSone LCD screen for anything I decided to break the case open and solder the respective wires. To my delight I was able to see the BurgerTime PCB working properly on the PSone LCD screen !

BurgerTime PCB Working on the PSone LCD CGA Test Rig Monitor
I ended up going on a service call to fix another persons Centipede locally and instead of taking payment I bartered for my arcade skills for parts, to help off set the cost of my restoration I was granted the Stencils for fixing someones Centipede. Fast Forward about 4-6 weeks later I finally received my stencils for the art work on the side of the cabinet to replace Peter Pepper with. The Side Art stencils will come in a large tube with 6 sheets in total. Two for the white, two for red, and finally two for the black stencils. This is probably without a doubt the most tedious part of the entire restoration process but the results speak for themselves and are worth it in the end. My advice is take your time and either dedicate an entire day for this process or even space it out over 2-3 days, so it doesn't become repetitive and overwhelming.


 The first color that's applied is "White". When you apply the stencil try to smooth it out as best you can using a squeegee, credit card, soft edge etc.. Once you place the stencil on and finish smoothing it out, you will notice some cut outs that look like Pac-man, don't paint over those and don't remove them as they are markers for the following layers of the other stencils so that the rest of the artwork will line up. Here you can see I also used some painters tape to prevent errors. I happened to of rolled this set instead of spraying I wanted to try an alternative method and I think rolling you have extreme control, the stencil won't lift on you from the air and won't have over spray. I rolled one layer of white, waited about 20min or so and than rolled another coat. You want to try to remove the stencil when it's still slightly tacky, as latex has a tendency to peel. 

Next color was the "Red" (*again I added two coats of paint in the photo was one coat) :

 The final color was the "Black" This coat was the hardest in terms of removing it because you needed to literally cut out / pick off all of the tiny pieces even the seeds on the hamburger bun, some smaller pieces within the pepper shaker etc:


Once everything was peeled off the end result is well worth the effort. The process is obviously repeated on the other side of the cabinet:
BurgerTime Stencil Kit Completed
 At this point in time the cabinet was ready to be moved into my basement, I was done painting, and the cabinet essentially just needed certain parts to be put back together as well as a CRT needed to be installed. The next item I added was new orange T-Molding. The original T-molding over time fades, cracks etc. After I added the T-Molding I installed silk screened kick art. The kick art was made my www.thisoldgame.com, but was sold out at the time so I luckily obtained mine from another KLOV member.
T-molding & Kick Art Applied



 Next I needed to add a CRT. I bought a used monitor but I needed to change out the frame. Luckily I had a G07 frame available so it would seamlessly fit without any issues. I also installed a brand new sheet of smoked plexi. I added 2 new wedge lamps in the coin door, along with a new fs2 starter for the marquee and a new florescent lamp. Below is a video of the game play.

No comments:

Post a Comment