When I first picked up my cabinet it was in mediocre condition at best. While It's tough to tell from the above photos, the BurgerTime cabinet had various scratches, faded artwork, some minor planking, as well as the game was completely dead when I picked it up. Oh yeah the cabinet also had no CRT monitor, a bad control panel overlay, a bad power supply, faded t-molding, no locks, drilled lock bar holes to mention a few. The good news was that overall the cabinet was structurally pretty solid without any water damage. Also the cabinet had all of the original wiring for the most part intact, this cabinet was always a BurgerTime and never was converted. Probably one of the most unique features of the BurgerTime cabinet is the wood on top forms the chefs (Peter Pepper's) hat. I think cosmetically it's one of the more iconic, and eye catching cabinets that is cleverly done just right.
The next challenge was to tackle the cabinet. First I started to sand away the old existing artwork. I used my Dewalt 2 1/4'' palm sander, which works great but it's just a tedious process. I would recommend probably using either an 80 grit or even possibly go as low as a 60 grit. Or just use what ever method works best for you. Once you get it down to the bare wood, your going to want to fill in any holes, cracks or wood issues with Bondo. You really want to stay away from wood filler as it sometimes does shrink over time.
Once I filled in all of the nicks, dents, and lock bar holes from when the game sat on location I was ready to paint. I used the main mustard color with a Home Depot color called "Yam" in case anyone needed the paint code. This was a very almost Identical match to the original. I needed to wait for the stencils to come because they had a long delay due to the fact that Rich at Thisoldgame.com was busy with other projects. The delay gave me some time to work on other cosmetic / and mechanical issues on the cabinet.
The first thing I decided to work on while waiting on the stencils to come in was the control panel. The original control panel overlay was peeling, dirty, along with the control panel had rust etc. Below you can see pictures of the CPO (Control Panel Overlay) before:
I ended up using a wall paper steamer for the first time to remove the older control panel overlay. This is actually great because you don't need to use harmful chemicals, sure it's not as fast but you can certainly even do it inside without worrying about toxic flesh melting paint stripper. Once the control panel was stripped of all parts including the CPO, I sanded, and used bondo, as well as painted the panel to prevent future rust from forming. I bought the New Silk Screened CPO from "Backtothearcade.com" which was actually made by Rich at Thisoldgame.com.
|New Silk Screened Control Panel Overlay|
|Control Panel Reassembled|
|Arcade Shop BurgerTime Power Supply Kit|
The next thing I did was I cleaned the inside of the cabinet, in addition to sanding down both the inside of the cabinet as well as the "brief case" style original transformer / power brick. Also my interlock switch was completely not connected, this could be dangerous if your working on a game and forget to shut it off, so I reconnected the wires accordingly.
|Inside of cabinet|
|BurgerTime PCB Working on the PSone LCD CGA Test Rig Monitor|
The first color that's applied is "White". When you apply the stencil try to smooth it out as best you can using a squeegee, credit card, soft edge etc.. Once you place the stencil on and finish smoothing it out, you will notice some cut outs that look like Pac-man, don't paint over those and don't remove them as they are markers for the following layers of the other stencils so that the rest of the artwork will line up. Here you can see I also used some painters tape to prevent errors. I happened to of rolled this set instead of spraying I wanted to try an alternative method and I think rolling you have extreme control, the stencil won't lift on you from the air and won't have over spray. I rolled one layer of white, waited about 20min or so and than rolled another coat. You want to try to remove the stencil when it's still slightly tacky, as latex has a tendency to peel.
Next color was the "Red" (*again I added two coats of paint in the photo was one coat) :
The final color was the "Black" This coat was the hardest in terms of removing it because you needed to literally cut out / pick off all of the tiny pieces even the seeds on the hamburger bun, some smaller pieces within the pepper shaker etc:
Once everything was peeled off the end result is well worth the effort. The process is obviously repeated on the other side of the cabinet:
|BurgerTime Stencil Kit Completed|
|T-molding & Kick Art Applied|